A BRIEF HISTORY OF FRUIT WINES OF MEGHALAYA
The world of non-grape wine making remains unexplored. With over 2000 edible fruits in existence, it's surprising that grapes are exclusively seen as the best fruit for wine production. There is a need to reconsider the grape-centric approach and explore the possibility of producing high-quality wines using the abundant array of locally available fruits and uniquely flavoured Honey.
Fruit wine production in Meghalaya dates back to 1947 when Captain Harold Douglas Hunt established a winery in Mawphlang after obtaining a license from the then Governor of Assam, Sir Akbar Hydari. The winery produced the famous Mawphlang Cherry wine and Cherry brandy from the fruits of Sohiong (Prunus nepalensis) and gained popularity across the country. The winery ceased operations in the 1980s, post Captain Hunt’s death but since then, other hobbyist winemakers have continued making Sohiong wine and expanded to include other fruits as well. The Shillong Wine Festivals, initiated in 2004 by Mr. Michael Syiem, president of the Meghalaya Association of Wine Makers, has further boosted fruit wine making in the region and has become an annual tourist attraction. The annual Wine Festivals championed by Mr. Micheal Syiem, became a platform for local winemakers to showcase local homemade wines made from indigenous fruits and cemented Meghalaya’s reputation as the home of Fruit Wines in the North-East. However, since fruit winemaking was considered to be more of a hobbyist activity, it was never legalised by the State government and the industry could not flourish or expand beyond state boundaries.
It was only when local wines from Meghalaya were showcased alongside wines from different parts of the country in the first B2B Food Exhibition – The Northeast Food Show in 2019 and subsequent shows that the potential of Meghalaya’s Fruit Wines as an enterprise was realised. The North East Food Show 2019 by SIAL, organized jointly by the Meghalaya Institute of Entrepreneurship (MIE), the Meghalaya Farmers’(Empowerment) Commission (MFEC), 1917iTEAMS and the Directorate of Food Processing (DOFP) in Shillong also highlighted the need for quality improvement not only of the wine but also with regards to the packaging, labelling and marketing. Recognizing the potential of fruit wines in sustainably addressing the wastage of perishable agricultural produce in the supply chain and for employment generation in the value chain, including tourism, the Meghalaya Farmers’ (Empowerment) Commission together with the Department of Excise started exploring the legalisation for Homemade Wines.
In September 2020, the Government of Meghalaya amended the Meghalaya Excise Rules (Assam Excise Rules 1945) through a notification dated 29th September 2020 (No. ERTS (E)7/2020/52), to legalize the production and sale of Homemade Wines under license to provide a legal avenue for local Winemakers to carry out winemaking as a commercial venture. This amendment was adopted with the intent of not only creating an opportunity for Wine Tourism but also to provide an impetus to the horticulture sector to undertake cultivation and production of indigenous fruits on a commercial scale. This move has created new opportunities for wine makers, entrepreneurs, and farmers in the state. However, to ensure a balance between supply and demand and avoid issues like inventory accumulation or economic shocks, it's crucial to accordingly calibrate the demand and supply. Additionally, efforts are now being made to enhance the appreciation and taste for fruit wines within the state by refining their quality and production processes.
To this end the Farmers' (Empowerment) Commission (MFEC) has taken on the responsibility of expanding the market scope for locally produced fruit wines by providing capacity-building programs for efficient support of the local wine-making industry. As part of its capacity building mandate, the Commission organized exposure visits for winemakers and officials to the Indian wine industry in Nashik and international wine exhibitions like VinExpo India in Mumbai and Delhi. The Commission firmly believes that embracing modern technology and implementing innovative practices are crucial for improving the quality of local fruit wines. To further support local winemakers through training, mentorship and incubation, the MFEC established the First Model Fruit Winery at the Institute of Hotel Management Catering Technology & Applied Nutrition (IHMCTAN) campus in Shillong. With an installed capacity of 1000 liters per cycle, this facility serves as a practical training ground equipped with state-of-the-art machinery and equipment, enabling winemakers from across the Northeast to practice and learn to produce wines that meet national and global standards. Through the relentless and tireless efforts of all stakeholders, the MFEC aims to establish Meghalaya as the fruit wine capital of the country for which the involvement of all stakeholders is key. To facilitate these programs and build a training ecosystem for fruit-wine making in our state, the MFEC has engaged with some of the best fruit winemakers of the country to train and build up the capacity of the IHMCTAN and its personnel.
MFEC is committed to bringing the best technologies and resources to farmers and agripreneurs of the region. Fruit wine making trainings are being institutionalized for farmers, agripreneurs, and winemakers. In line with this commitment, MFEC is hosting Wine Appreciation & Wine Making Certification Courses to explore the art, science, and process of fruit wine and mead making. These courses bring together wine enthusiasts, connoisseurs, and industry professionals for a unique opportunity to understand fruit wines and explore winemaking. The Certification Courses are being conducted by the founders of Hill Zill Wines, a pioneering husband and wife team who have successfully established the world's first chikoo fruit winery. With decades of fruit wine making and selling experiences, Hill Zill Wines in coordination with the MFEC, have developed customised course content and handbooks specifically for fruit winemakers of Meghalaya and the Northeast as a useful resource for winemakers.
The First Batch of Wine Appreciation & Wine Making Certification Courses were held in June to July 2023 for 68 trainees and for the Second Batch of 25 trainees in August 2023. A total of 93 winemakers have been trained so far with 16 of them currently undergoing internship in the winery of Hill Zill wines, Bordi, Maharashtra. The courses offered guided tastings, educational workshops, and interactive sessions with sommeliers and winemakers making it an immersive and enriching experience for wine enthusiasts, connoisseurs, and industry professionals looking to enhance their knowledge, indulge their senses, and connect with fellow wine enthusiasts.
The Wine Appreciation & Wine Making Certification Courses have been organised by MFEC with the aim of encouraging local winemakers to transition from the traditional art of winemaking to modern winemaking techniques to ensure that the quality of wine produced in the state matches nationally and internationally recognized wine standards. “As a Commission our goal is to make Meghalaya the Fruit Wine and Mead Capital of the country just like Nashik has become the Grape Wine Capital,” has often been stated by Mr. K. N. Kumar, Chairman of the MFEC. Having been actively involved in the formulation of the current policy, the Meghalaya Farmers’ (Empowerment) Commission (MFEC) has now taken on the yoke of responsibility to provide an impetus not only for winemakers but also for consumers and businesses to actively undertake the promotion and consumption of local fruit wines and meads in the country to ensure that Meghalaya is at the forefront of fruit wine and mead production and refinement throughout the northeast.
Meghalaya boasts a variety of indigenous fruits and honey with the potential for producing top-notch wines and meads respectively. Popular options include wild/crab apples (Sohphoh Khasi), Sohbrap (passion fruit), and Sohiong (prune). Sohiong wine has been attracting the attention of both domestic and international buyers, leading to increased demand for the fruit. This surge in interest has motivated farmers to explore the possibilities of commercial cultivation of Sohiong. One such farmer, Mr. Bording Ioannis Shylla, an Agripreneur from Mawkyrwat, after returning from the exposure visit to Nashik funded by MFEC, has taken the bold step by investing in a state-of-the-art Winery in Mawkyrwat, and intends to start community orchards for Sohiong. Besides fruits, the manufacture of mead from Honey is a potential income and employment generating avenue for our beekeepers and rural educated youths while supporting the honey industry of the state. The growing Fruit Wine and Mead Industry not only presents an opportunity for farmers to engage in horticulture and Apiculture but also contributes to the revival of indigenous fruits, improving biodiversity and value addition of exotic fruits like blueberries and strawberries. The main incentive for direct intervention in the Fruit Wine and Mead making Industry of the state by the Commission is the industry's potential to directly impact farmers' livelihoods and increase their income.
In addition to being a source of income for wine entrepreneurs and farmers, the Fruit Wine Industry can also have a significant impact on tourism in Meghalaya. Similar to Napa Valley in the United States and Nashik in India, which have leveraged wine to attract tourists, the Meghalaya Farmers' (Empowerment) Commission (MFEC) envisions local Fruit Wines serving as a backdrop for Wine Tourism and wine resorts in the state. Furthermore, tourists visiting the state often leave with souvenirs like Lakadong turmeric or honey, so local Fruit Wines have the potential to become sought-after mementoes, much like wines from France or Italy. To this end and as an initial first step, the MFEC has facilitated the entry of fruit wines in the restaurants of hotels like Vivanta, Shillong and Rynsan with some brands now on wine store shelves.
Through the recently introduced Wine & Beer License, which allows cafes and restaurants to legally serve Local Fruit Wine, MFEC aims to encourage the food industry to capitalize on the growing demand for local alternatives to alcoholic beverages. Recognizing the economic viability of Local Fruit Wines and their impact on farmers, tourism, and the food industry, the Commission is committed to creating a favourable environment for aspiring winemakers in the state by providing opportunities like the Wine Appreciation & Wine Making Certification Courses.
Priyanka Save, Founder & Director of Hill Zill Wines and Himachal Nectars, who are the official training partners for the Certification Courses, is a pioneer in Fruit Wine Making in the country having created the First Chickoo Fruit Wine in the world under the Brand Name Fruzzante. She has been officially notified as the Fruit Wine Ambassador for Meghalaya by MFEC. As an expert in Fruit Wine Making, she will guide local winemakers in adopting new techniques and technologies to enhance wine quality as well as utilise local horticultural produce for creating exotic Fruit Wines that would serve as the backbone of wine tourism for the state. The Wine Appreciation Course, in collaboration with various wine houses, glass manufacturers, yeast making companies, and meaderies, emphasizes the curation and pairing of local cuisines with Local Fruit Wines, creating a unique experience for wine and food enthusiasts. These certification courses also aim to educate local winemakers about the vast market opportunities available for Fruit Wines at the national and global levels.
Meghalaya's rich biodiversity not only presents an opportunity for wine and mead production but also positions the state uniquely in the global market. By leveraging this distinctiveness, implementing effective marketing strategies, and adhering to best production practices, Meghalaya can tap into vast opportunities in the international wine industry. However, the focus extends beyond economic growth; it encompasses the preservation of Meghalaya's cultural heritage, traditional farming methods, and sustainable practices.
The role of MFEC extends beyond the Certification courses. The Commission plans to establish a robust mentorship program to support emerging winemakers in navigating the challenges of the industry. This mentorship will provide access to industry insights, business acumen, and a network of professionals who can guide them through wine production, distribution, and marketing.
One of the key challenges in the wine industry is adapting to climate change and its potential impact on fruit yields and quality. Meghalaya's diverse microclimates offer a unique advantage, but research, innovation, and the adoption of climate-resilient practices are urgently needed. Recognizing this, MFEC aims to collaborate with top research institutions and universities to advance the study of fruit oenology in the region, ensuring that Meghalaya remains at the forefront of the industry. Furthermore, Community involvement is crucial for the success of the wine industry in Meghalaya. Local communities must actively participate, not only in cultivation but also in decision-making processes, to ensure equitable distribution of the benefits generated by the growing wine industry.
Excitement is palpable in Meghalaya as locals take pride in their indigenous fruits and are eager to share their produce in the form of exquisite wines with the world. The state is poised to attract tourists seeking not only scenic beauty but also an immersive wine culture experience. Tasting sessions, winery tours, and wine festivals are expected to become major attractions.
In conclusion and with the launch of the North East Fruit Wine Incubation Centre (NEFWIC), by the honourable Chief Minister, Shri Conrad K Sangma on the 14th September 2023, the vision to position Meghalaya as the Fruit Wine Capital of India is ambitious yet rooted in sustainability and inclusivity. Traditional knowledge, innovative practices, and unwavering commitment from the Government and institutions like MFEC promise a bright future for Meghalaya's fruit wine industry. While time will reveal the full extent of this vision, the initial signs are undeniably promising.
